Men’s Bespoke Footwear
What once emerged as a necessity to protect your feet has today managed to grow into a full-fledged working industry. It is tough to believe that men’s footwear history is far more revolutionary than a woman. Bespoke or personalized footwear is made with 100-percent precision depending upon the customer’s measurements. From the earliest known bespoke shoe to the current sneaker world we live in, this article shall focus on the evolution of men’s bespoke footwear.
During the 18th century, multiple masters and their apprentices would work together to create a single pair of shoes. These groups of people were often called shoemakers, cobblers, or cordwainers. However, it is argued that using the word cobblers for sophisticated shoemakers was insulting to them. Cobblers are individuals who merely repair shoes. They do not possess the art and skill of creating a shoe from the beginning. Their responsibilities end at improving a shoe by taking up un-mangled leather from an old shoe. On the other hand, a cordwainer would take up the authority to create a new shoe from new leather. Thus, the capabilities of a cobbler and a cordwainer are contradictory.
It is assumed that all kinds of footwear worn by people of those times were custom made. Although, such is not the case. Most shoemakers’ businesses were driven by the wholesale and retail sale of ready-made shoes. Many people believe that custom made shoes were only for the rich. This is not true either. During those times, most kinds of shoes were custom made and hand-sewn. Thus, their costs would not exceed the average earnings of a daily wage worker. Most people would own two pairs of shoes, including slippers and dress shoes for important occasions. One of the most luxurious types of shoes during those times was the riding boot shoe. Since horses were considered a luxury, only those who could afford riding boots would have them custom made.
Bespoke shoes are exquisite in the present day. Due to the precision of measurements that went into the process, the first pair of bespoke shoes would take much longer to create than a ready-made shoe. The method of creating a bespoke shoe was lengthy. At first, when a customer would arrive, the craftsmen would take measurements of their feet by hand and by drawing outlines of your feet on paper. Once this was done, an in-depth discussion, depending on how you wish your shoe fit, shall be followed. After the craftsmen would have a complete idea of your requirements, he would proceed ahead and create “lasts” for your feet.
Lasts played a crucial role in creating a pair of bespoke shoes. Lasts are molds over which the final shoes are carved. Present-day shoe companies also create standardized lasts based on regular shoe sizes. While traditional shoemaking artisans would hand-carve these out of wood, the modern-day companies would make them out of plastic, based on 3D scans. A trial pair of shoes made out of second-grade leather would be created for the client. With these, a fitting would be conducted with the customer to check the accuracy of the last.
In case of any faults, the lasts would be adjusted according to the customers’ requirements. Another pair of the trial would be conducted after the adjustments to ensure 100-percent accuracy. While in case of a perfect fit, the craftsmen would create a final couple of bespoke shoes. The first pair of bespoke shoes would always take the longest and cost the highest due to the creation of lasts. Your next pair of shoes would cost considerably less and take lesser time as the craftsmen would already have a ready last.
One of the most basic pair of footwear were considered to be sandals. These had a protective soul that held the foot together with cords of different materials. Whenever full protected footwear was required, an untanned hide was added to the top of the sandal.
The clogs or wooden shoes was another famous 15th-century footwear. Made out of a single piece of wood, these were successful in keeping the feet clean and dry even when the outer surface was wet and muddy.
The 1600s were when shoes officially entered the market. The concept of bespoke or custom-made shoes is said to have created its market during this era. After measuring the feet size, the traditional shoemakers would cut out leather in equivalent parts. Once these would be stitched, the insoles of soft leather and a firmer material’s outsoles would be attached. Once the wooden heels were pegged onto the shoes, the final process of smoothening and sand-papering would have the shoes ready for use.
While the bespoke shoemaking business flourished into the 18th and early 19th century, it soon saw its downfall by the end of the 19th century. The industrialization era soon began in the shoemaking industry, making it more volume focused while ignoring individual customization. One of the most evident initial phases of industrialization was seen during the Napoleonic Wars. Marc Brunel, a British engineer, developed a machine for mass-production of boots for the army. These shoes were durable and cheap, satisfying the primary purpose of them.
Even though this business of Brunel soon saw its end due to the availability of cheap manual labor, the introduction of the sewing machine caused the continuation of the downfall of bespoke shoemaking. By 1864, the shoe stitching machine was perfected, causing most shoemakers to incline towards it. The gradual inclination of all shoemaking steps towards automation soon caused the entire procedure to be completed mechanically. The sewing machines were quickly replaced in 1910 due to the production of glued shoes.
From the mid-20th century, the revolution of sports shoes came into the picture. With the end of the sophisticated and heeled footwear, sports shoes brought in the comfort and creativity that people needed. The popularity of “Sneakers” did not stay limited to the sports arena but extended itself at fashion podiums and all stores’ shelves. The logic behind the name Sneakers was that since they did not make as much noise as a leather shoe, anyone who would wear them could “sneak” into any place. The occurrence of World War II resulted in a decline in the usage of leather. Thus, fake leather and other materials were used as a replacement. These alternatives are popular even today.
In the present-day scenario, bespoke shoes are considered as the wealthy man’s commodity. Italian bespoke shoemakers tend to be comparatively more accessible than their French or British counterparts. Even though the price of a custom-made shoe differs depending upon the company’s materials, demand, and reputation, the average price of a bespoke shoe today begins around $4,000. However, if you ask for greater customization with complex stitching techniques and superior quality leather, the cost will rise. One of the most reputed bespoke shoemakers around the world today is Gaziano Girling.
The bespoke shoemakers today use techniques that do not involve the presence of machines at all. Such practices are the reason behind the high prices of bespoke shoes. Apart from the production procedures, the quality and materials of the shoes are exceptionally superior.
Thus, only pure leather and materials that match their level of craftsmanship will be used. The creation of a bespoke pair of shoes takes approximately sixty hours. These sixty hours do not include the creation of the lasts for the customer. Therefore, looking at the amount of work, hours, and quality of products that go along with creating one pair, the high prices are justified.
Bespoke shoes are considered as an investment. With the amount of service, customization, and craftsmanship that goes into one shoe, no other pair of shoes can be regarded as a replacement. For a few people, bespoke shoes are a necessity. It may just so happen that regular, standardized shoes do not fit them well. The reasons may vary from just having an awkward foot size to having any abnormalities in their feet. Thus, in such conditions, having made shoes precisely according to their measurements becomes a necessity.
While in other cases, people prefer custom made shoes for their satisfaction. Being the apex in shoemaking, individuals who can invest in such shoes enjoy doing so.
Therefore, all factors considered, bespoke shoes are very much in existence today. What was once made for everyone as a necessity is today an explicit luxury for the wealthier. If you wish to get a pair for yourself, conducting the right research and analyzing your requirements is the way to go. Make the right choices, as bespoke shoes are an investment, and going wrong with investments will only lead to regrets.
